Showing posts with label chemistry. Show all posts

Monday, June 18, 2018

Anti-Aging Skin Series Post 15: A little science behind XoM3 Product -- You Can Dew It!

Source: XoM3

Remember my last post about the great facial product by XoM3 -- You Can Dew It!! -- shown above? That might have seemed like a long time ago. Furthermore, you may have been curious as to what I have been doing in the meantime. Remember, I promised to talk about a science paper which I found regarding topical benefits of plant oils? I have read the paper and am ready to discuss the topic a little. Which means that the science behind the paper will be introduced.

Below, I have included the statements from the scientific paper titled "Anti-Inﬂammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils". The paper is a review of the literature of plant oils and their healing properties with respect to skin inflammation along with wound healing. In total, the paper is around 20 pages with tables and rich in references. Why do I mention this fact? Because, there are a large number of statements made in the paper which need to be further investigated (looking further into their references -- specifically the studies to back up a claim).

As a result, I have had a large amount of difficulty deciding on how to interpret the heavy hitting scientific statements made to the public (or the reader -- you). This has taken me a few weeks of indecision. Finally, I decided to lay out the statements regarding the specific ingredients which are contained in the product by XoM3 product -- You Can Dew It! Further, in the next blog post, I will go deeper into the contents of the paper regarding wound healing, anti-inflammation, anti-aging properties. Feel free to go through this open access paper by yourself. The paper can be found at either this link or here.

With that being said, let's move onto looking at results from a science article regarding the topical benefits of the ingredients in the product -- "You Can Dew It!" by XoM3 as reported in the cited article.

The following plant oils are contained in the facial treatment -- "You Can Dew It": 1) Jojoba Oil and 2) Argan Oil. These two oils are specifically discussed and researched along with others which will be detailed in the next blog post. First, I will list the statements regarding the two oils made in the research article I cite above. The remainder of the ingredients will be listed by their respective 'overview' descriptions from 'WebMD' as shown below:

1) Jojoba Oil:

The section on Jojoba Oil states:

Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) is a long-lived, drought resistant, perennial plant. Jojoba oil exhibits a high oxidative stability and resistance to degradation [131]. Jojoba oil is widely used in cosmetic formulas such as sunscreens and moisturizers. It has been shown to be effective in enhancing the absorption of topical drugs [132–134]. The high content of wax esters makes jojoba oil a good repair option for dermatoses with altered skin barriers, such as seborrheic dermatitis, eczematous dermatitis, AD,and acne[98]. Jojoba oil also has a proven anti-inﬂammatory effect,with potential uses in a variety of skin conditions including skin infections, skin aging, and WH [99,132].

2) Argan Oil:

The section on Argan Oil:

Argan oil is produced from the kernels of Argania spinosa L. Argan oil is composed of mono-unsaturated (80%) and saturated (20%) fatty acids. It contains polyphenols, tocopherols, sterols, squalene,and triterpene alcohols. Traditionally,argan oil has been utilized in cooking,in the treatment of skin infections, and in skin/hair care products. Daily topical application of argan oil has also been shown to improve skin elasticity [81] and skin hydration by restoring the barrier function and maintaining the water-holding capacity [123]. Additionally, topical applications onto skin provide a softening and relaxing effect on the skin, as well as helping to facilitate the accumulation and transdermal delivery of topical drugs such as allantoin [82]. Recently, tocopherol-rich argan oil-based nanoemulsions has been developed as vehicles possessing anticancer activity in murine breast and colon carcinoma cells [83]. Argan oil has also been shown to be effective in enhancing WH created second-degree burns in rats [84].

3) Rose Hip Oil:

The section on Rose Hip Oil:

Rose hip oil is extracted from seeds of rose hip (Rosa canina L.). Rose hip oil contains substantial UFAs. The most abundant fatty acid is linoleic acid (35.9–54.8%), followed by α-linolenic acid (16.6–26.5%), and oleic acid (14.7–22.1%) [141]. An appreciable number of lipophilic antioxidants is present, especially the tocopherols and carotenoids. Rose hip oil also contains high level of phenolic acids, especially p-coumaric acid methyl ester, vanillin, and vanillic acid. Due its high composition of UFAs and antioxidants, this oil has relatively high protection against inflammation and oxidative stress [109]. Shabikin et al. has tested the efficacy of topical rose hip seed oil together with an oral fat-soluble vitamins on different inflammatory dermatitis such as eczema, neurodermatitis, and cheilitis, with promising findings of the topical use of rose hip seed oil on these inflammatory dermatoses [110]

Next, the following ingredients which make up the remainder of the facial moisturizer - 'You Can Dew It!' are the 'overview' statements from 'WebMD' as shown below:

4) Primrose Oil:

The statement is from the 'Overview' webpage on WebMD for Primrose oil:

Overview Information

Evening primrose oil is the oil from the seed of the evening primrose plant. Evening primrose oil is used for skin disorders such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne. It is also used for rheumatoid arthritis, weak bones (osteoporosis), Raynaud’s syndrome, multiple sclerosis (MS), Sjogren’s syndrome, cancer, high cholesterol, heart disease, a movement disorder in children called dyspraxia, leg pain due to blocked blood vessels (intermittent claudication), alcoholism, Alzheimer’s disease, and schizophrenia.

Some people use evening primrose oil for chronic fatigue syndrome (CFS); asthma; nerve damage related to diabetes; an itching disorder called neurodermatitis; hyperactivity in children and attention deficit-hyperactivity disorder (ADHD); obesity and weight loss; whooping cough; and gastrointestinal disorders including ulcerative colitis, irritable bowel syndrome, and peptic ulcer disease.

Women use evening primrose oil in pregnancy for preventing high blood pressure (pre-eclampsia), shortening labor, starting labor, and preventing late deliveries. Women also use evening primrose oil for premenstrual syndrome (PMS), breast pain, endometriosis, and symptoms of menopause such as hot flashes.

In foods, evening primrose oil is used as a dietary source of essential fatty acids.

In manufacturing, evening primrose oil is used in soaps and cosmetics.

In Britain, evening primrose oil used to be approved for treating eczema and breast pain. However, the Medicines Control Agency (MCA), the British equivalent of the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), withdrew the licenses for evening primrose oil products marketed as prescription drug products for these uses. The licenses were withdrawn because the agency concluded that there is not enough evidence that they are effective. The manufacturer disagrees, but it hasn’t published studies yet to prove the effectiveness of evening primrose for these uses.

How does it work?

Evening primrose oil contains “fatty acids.” Some women with breast pain might not have high enough levels of certain ”fatty acids.” Fatty acids also seem to help decrease inflammation related to conditions such as arthritis and eczema.

5) Yarrow:

The statement below is from the 'Overview' webpage on 'WebMD' for Yarrow:

Overview Information

Yarrow is an herb. The above ground parts are used to make medicine.

Yarrow is used for fever, common cold, hay fever, absence of menstruation, dysentery, diarrhea, loss of appetite, gastrointestinal (GI) tract discomfort, and to induce sweating.

Some people chew the fresh leaves to relieve toothache.

Yarrow is applied to the skin to stop bleeding from hemorrhoids; for wounds; and as a sitz bath for painful, lower pelvic, cramp-like conditions in women. In combination with other herbs, yarrow is used for bloating, intestinal gas (flatulence), mild gastrointestinal (GI) cramping, and other GI complaints. In foods, the young leaves and flowers of yarrow are used in salads. In manufacturing, yarrow is also used as a cosmetic cleanser and in snuff. Yarrow oil is used in shampoos.

How does it work?

Yarrow contains many chemicals that might affect blood pressure and possibly have anti-inflammatory effects.

6) Calendula Oil:

The statement below is from the 'Overview' webpage on 'WebMD' for Calendula oil:

Overview Information

Calendula is a plant. The flower is used to make medicine.

Calendula flower is used to prevent muscle spasms, start menstrual periods, and reduce fever. It is also used for treating sore throat and mouth, menstrual cramps, cancer, and stomach and duodenal ulcers. Calendula has also been used for measles, smallpox, and jaundice.

Calendula is applied to the skin to reduce pain and swelling (inflammation) and to treat poorly healing wounds and leg ulcers. It is also applied to the skin (used topically) for nosebleeds, varicose veins, hemorrhoids, inflammation of the rectum (proctitis), ear infection, gum disease, peeling lips (exfoliative cheilitis), diaper rash, vaginal yeast infection, and inflammation of the lining of the eyelid (conjunctivitis). Essential oil of calendula has been used as an insect repellant.

Don’t confuse calendula with ornamental marigolds of the Tagets genus, which are commonly grown in vegetable gardens.

How does it work?

It is thought that the chemicals in calendula help new tissue grow in wounds and decrease swelling in the mouth and throat.

7) Comfrey Extract:

The statement below is from the 'Overview' webpage on 'WebMD' for Comfrey Extract:

Overview Information

Comfrey is a plant. Even though this plant contains poisonous chemicals called pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs), the leaf, root, and root-like stem (rhizome) are used to make medicine. The amount of PAs found in comfrey changes according to the time of harvesting and the age of the plant. The roots have 10 times higher amounts of PAs than the leaves. Some products labeled “common comfrey” or Symphytum officinale actually contain the more poisonous “prickly comfrey” (Symphytum asperum) or “Russian comfrey” (Symphytum x uplandicum) species.

Comfrey is used as a tea for upset stomach, ulcers, heavy menstrual periods, diarrhea, bloody urine, persistent cough, painful breathing (pleuritis), bronchitis, cancer, and chest pain (angina). It is also used as a gargle for gum disease and sore throat.

Comfrey is applied to the skin for ulcers, wounds, joint inflammation, bruises, rheumatoid arthritis, swollen veins (phlebitis), gout, and fractures.

How does it work?

The chemicals in comfrey might have a healing effect and reduce inflammation when applied to the skin. However, comfrey contains toxic chemicals that can be absorbed through the skin.

8) Frankencense oil:

The statement below is from the 'Overview' webpage on 'WebMD' for Frankencense:

Overview Information

Frankincense is the hardened gum-like material (resin) that comes from cuts made in the trunk of the Boswellia carteri tree. People use it to make medicine.

Frankincense is used for colic and intestinal gas (flatulence). It is sometimes applied to the skin in hand cream.

The essential oil of frankincense is used on the skin and by inhalation as a pain-killer.

How does it work?

There isn't enough information available to know how frankincense works.

9) Ylang Ylang:

The statement below is from the 'Overview' webpage on 'WebMD' for Ylang Ylang:

Overview Information

Ylang ylang oil is made from the flowers of the herb Cananga odorata genuina.

People apply ylang ylang oil to the skin to promote relaxation, kill bacteria, lower high blood pressure, and increase sexual desire. It is also part of a combination spray used to kill head lice.

In foods and beverages, ylang ylang oil is used as a flavoring.

In manufacturing, it is used as a fragrance for cosmetics and soaps.

How does it work?

There isn’t enough information to know how ylang ylang oil might work.

This concludes the statements from the cited research article above along with the website 'WebMD' for the ingredients of the product by XoM3 -- You Can Dew It!

In total, the scientific paper I introduced only covered 2 ingredients listed on the back of the facial moisturizer -- You Can Dew It! The overall message regarding the scientific research for those two ingredients (chemicals) is as follows:

Jojoba oil: Jojoba oil search returned the results of having a beneficial effect in skin barrier repair along with anti-aging properties. The oil has both anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties as referenced in the cited paper. These benefits are important for a facial moisturizer developed to repair and return healthy looking skin.

Argan oil: Argan oil is beneficial for wound healing and skin barrier repair as cited in the referenced paper. There are questionable data regarding anti-aging properties or anti-oxidant properties. Although, argan oil along with jojoba oil have anti-inflammatory properties when incorporated into a skin care product.

Rose Hip oil: Rose Hip is beneficial as an anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. According to the table cited in the article, rose hip also contains anti-aging components which contribute to the overall properties of the moisturizer.

Conclusion...

The other ingredients are referenced with information from the website 'WebMD'. In the next blog post, I will go further into the properties and benefits behind the science listed in the cited article. Plants have beneficial properties as noted in the cited papers. How to measure or design an experiment to test these ingredients is difficult, but ongoing. As science moves forward, the knowledge will increase proportionately on the safety of the ingredients used in cosmetic products.

Until next time, have a great day!

Related Blog Posts:

Anti-Aging Skin Series 14: You Can Dew It by XoM3

Index of Anti-Aging Blog Posts

Thursday, July 6, 2017

Where Do I Find Previous Anti-Aging Skin Series Blog Posts?

Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Anti-Aging Skin Series Post 7: Part 2 -- Ingredient Analysis Of Jergen's Skin Firming Lotion

Over the weekend, I was lazy. Can you relate to this feeling? I had planned to write and catch up on a few articles and ended up doing nothing of the sort. What did I do? I binge watched old seasons of the popular show "Grey's Anatomy". Kayla is into the show. I was reading while she was watching the show on Saturday. I asked her to turn up the volume....she said "Mike, If I turn up the volume, you might get sucked into the show?" I responded "probably not...." From then on, for the remainder of the weekend, I was a couch potato watching the show. Why am I admitting this to you? Well...

There was a scene where two surgeons were talking small talk in the doctor's lounge on the show. Who they were is not necessarily important. At one point in the conversation, one holds up a bottle of lotion and says, "We are doctors and we don't even know what the chemicals are listed on the back of this lotion....What is dimethicone?" At that point, I perked up and thought of the blog that I was in the process of writing for the "Anti-Aging Skin Series" which originated out of the long article that Kayla asked me to simplify titled "Can Science Really Reverse Aging Skin?". The chemical dimethicone is an ingredient that was discussed in a previous blog post. I decided to scrap the first draft that I had and start over. We last left off with a glossary of terms which would help us in understanding the ingredient list on the backside of a bottle of lotion -- Jergen's Skin Firming Moisturizing Lotion (previous blog).

The above introduction proves that an interest does exist for an understanding of the chemicals which are listed on the back side of products. Even if the interest was stated on a Hollywood set in "Grey's Anatomy". In the next blog post, I will tell you a real story about a chemist with a similar medical experience.

With this in mind, lets explore the backside of the ingredients which were listed in the previous blog post for the moisturizing lotion made by Jergen's -- which supposedly leaves a younger and healthier looking skin after use. A picture of the front side of the bottle is shown below:

Ingredients

To start out with, I must admit that I have had difficulty in trying to decide the format of these blog posts with the ingredients listed on the back of the container and their associated toxicities. In light of this revelation, bear with me through the next few blog posts. I am finding my way in terms of design and information layout. My plan is to lay out the ingredients in this blog with the chemical structures shown along with a brief discussion of the grouping/function of them relative to the product description. In the next blog post, I will discuss briefly a few aspects of the associated toxicology of the ingredients. The learning curve was much longer (took me way longer than I had imagined -- a month and a half) to find my way. But we are here now and lets get started.

The structures of most of the ingredients are shown in the three panels below. Initially, I decided to take structures from two main websites: Wikipedia and the Environmental Working Group. After some time, I decided to learn a program (that I have no used in quite a while) to draw the chemical structures myself. The advantage of drawing the images myself with a chemical sketch program is that I am allowed to orient the molecules my own way to illustrate the point of function. With that being said, the four images below contain the chemical structures listed in the ingredients section on the back side of a bottle of Jergen's Skin Firming Moisturizer Lotion as shown below:

The three panels above show a variety of chemical structures. Some of which might be recognizable and others that are not. Note: the structures above were taken from different sources and might appear different. I will discuss that shortly for clarification purposes. I will be discussing the function of the ingredients in the product and talking periodically about the chemical structure, so feel free to scroll the mouse back up to the picture to view the structures as we move along.

These are some of the ingredients listed on the back of the bottle of lotion as shown below:

To start with, figuring out the function of the ingredient is relatively easy. In the previous post, I listed the function and definition of each ingredient. The important connection is to make between the function and the reason why the manufacturer chose to incorporate the ingredient into the lotion.

Two questions can be offered at the start in order to understand the ingredients:

1) Why is the ingredient in the product?

2) What is the concentration of the ingredient in the bottle?

These questions might seem redundant, but in actuality, chemists ask themselves these two questions before starting the research and development phase. Further, during the testing phase, these questions come up arise again if the product does not meet the intended purpose. For instance, does the cream spread smoothly over the surface of your skin without 'caking up'? Part of the answer lies in understanding the concept of "hydrophilic" and "hydrophobic". The concept of "hydrophobic" and "hydrophilic" is sometimes difficult to convey. Here are two videos taken from YouTube that are each less than 5 minutes in length and might help clarify the distinction between the two terms.

The video above is just one of many different explanations of the two terms: "hydrophilic" and "hydrophobic". I would encourage you (the reader) to search the internet on your own for an example that taps into your learning style. The easiest way that I can visualize the difference is to look at a bottle of Italian salad dressing whose components have separated into the hydrophobic layer along with the hydrophilic layer. An image is shown below:

Source: Science Friday

As you can see, the two components have separated completely. If you were to shake the bottle up, the two layers would mix for a short (a few minutes) duration until the two layers. Here is a short explanation of how salad dressing works from our website. There are numerous explanations out online to clarify the distinction. One explanation that I found helpful was from an episode of the wildly popular show called "Science Friday". The episode was called "Salad Dressing Science." Here is a very simple explanation:

Most vinegars are solutions of acetic acid and water (plus some other acids and alcohols, depending on the type of vinegar you are using). Water, acetic acid, and alcohol are all examples of polar molecules—molecules that have a slightly negative charge at one end, or pole, and a slightly positive charge at another end. These slightly charged poles arise because one or more atoms in the molecule are electronegative, meaning that they tug electrons—which are negatively charged—towards them, creating an uneven distribution of charge within the molecule. Polar molecules are generally attracted to other polar molecules because their slightly negative poles have an affinity for their slightly positive poles. Polar molecules are attracted to water molecules—which are also polar—and are called hydrophilic, which means “water loving.”

Oils are a different story. Oils are a type of fat (like butter, shortening, and lard) and are considered non-polar. Fats and oils are composed primarily of long molecules called fatty acids (usually bound together by glycerol molecules into groups of three called triglycerides). Most of the atoms in a fatty acid molecule share electrons evenly and are neither negatively nor positively charged (although fatty acids do contain small regions of polarity—just not enough to make the whole molecule polar.) Non-polar molecules love other non-polar molecules and will glom together when mixed with water. You can observe this phenomenon by placing a few drops of oil on the surface of a bowl of water—eventually the drops will form a single large oil slick. Oils repel polar molecules such as those found in vinegar. Because oils also repel water, they are called hydrophobic, which means “water-fearing.”

The natural question arises when considering how the two layers stay together for a short time:

What holds the two layers together?

Obviously, whatever chemical that holds the two layers together will have to contain both properties. That is a long chain molecule could serve as the linker. Although, the linker (or emulsifier) molecule has to have a hydrophobic end along with a hydrophilic end too.

What does a molecule that serves as an "emulsifier" look like?

Here is a photo of the linker molecule shown on the webpage below:

Source: Science Friday

Notice how the molecule in the picture has both a polar and a non-polar end. Again, from the website "Science Friday" for the episode "Salad Dressing Science" -- a short excerpt explaining the function of an "emulsifier":

How can we bring together polar and non-polar molecules to make something delicious like mayonnaise (which is essentially a combination of water and oil) or salad dressing? We need an emulsifier. Emulsifiers are the hand-holders of the molecule world. They contain both hydrophobic and hydrophilic regions and are able to attract and “hold hands” with polar and non-polar molecules simultaneously, pulling them together to form a special type of mixture called an emulsion. For instance, after adding an effective emulsifier to oil and vinegar and mixing thoroughly, separation of the oil from the vinegar will take much longer or won’t happen at all.

At this point, you are probably thinking the following question:

What does salad dressing science have to do with producing a cosmetic formulation?

Actually, from a chemist's standpoint, there is no difference. Both are mixtures of chemicals. Furthermore, each chemical has a distinct purpose (or supportive purpose) in the product formulation. Lets start with the categories that each chemical is partitioned into. In certain instances, some chemicals will play a dual role. This will become clear shortly in the next section.

Categories Of Chemicals

In the previous post which contained a dictionary of 'functions' that chemicals play in cosmetics and food chemistry. Before that, the previous post was the first post in which I chose a product as shown above -- Jergen's Skin Firming Moisturizer lotion -- to break down. In that post, I listed each chemical with the function that each serve. Now, the time has come to group the chemicals into categories in their respective functions -- to drive home the function of the components.

A) Categories: Hydrophobic, Hydrophilic, Emulsifier, and Surfactant:

Above, there was a brief introduction into the 'hydrophobic'(water fearing) and 'hydrophilic'(water loving) chemicals. This distinction is very important since a large amount of chemicals are thought of in these terms in product formation. Additionally, there are 'linker' molecules which have both properties -- 'hydrophobic' and 'hydrophilic' -- which are extremely important to make a mixture appear to be uniform. This class of chemicals is known as 'emulsifiers'. I will refer to the previous post with the dictionary for more information.

Note: the categories listed below -- hydrophobic, hydrophilic, and emulsifier are used for simplifying purposes. Depending on the professional settings and synthesis, the degree of each categorical placement can be argued. I use these categories to help the reader understand that a certain amount of cosmetic formulations have a fatty component (nonpolar), a hydrophilic component (glycerin) and an emulsifier (cetearyl alcohol) to make a mixture. Other chemicals are present to assist in stabilizing the mixture to hold together along with other attributes (properties) which will be highlighted below.

A.1: Hydrophobic Ingredients

The first category will be the 'hydrophobic' compounds (i.e., non-polar, oils, fats, starch, etc.) shown below:

1) Mineral Oil

2) Petrolatum

3) Cyclopentasiloxane

4) Acrylates Copolymer

5) Dimethicone

6) Stearic Acid

7) Glyceryl Dilaurate

8) Fragrance

9) Methyl Paraben

10) Butylene Glycol

11) Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkylacrylate Crosspolymer

12) Propyl Paraben

13) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PNP Crosspolymer

14) Tocopheryl Acetate

15) Centella Asiatica Extract

16) Cocos Nucifer (coconut oil)

17) Hydrolyzed Collagen

18) Withania Somnifera Root Extract

19) Fusus Vesiculosus Extract

20) Hydrolyzed Elastin

Upon inspecting the ingredients in the list above, you will notice that some of them do not have chemical structures shown in the image panels above. Which raises the following question:

Why are their chemical structures not shown?

The reason is that oils contain mixtures of fats along with other long chain carbon molecules. The chains are nonpolar and are repeating carbon atoms with hydrogen atoms attached in most cases. In the image below, I show a distribution of carbon chains of varying length to illustrate my point:

An example of such a mixture of carbon chains is Petrolatum. Petrolatum is a jelly with viscous properties. The viscosity can be controlled by the distribution of chain lengths in the mixture. For a mixture with a high viscosity, the chain length might be greater than 25 carbons in length. Whereas, for a less viscous mixture, the carbon chains might be in the range of less than 25 carbons in length.

In the image above, I show carbon chains

A.2 Hydrophilic Ingredients

The next category is the opposite of the first in properties -- the 'hydrophilic' compounds (i.e., polar, ionic molecules, water, short chained alcohols, etc.) are shown below:

1) Water

2) Glycerin

3) DMDM Hydantoin

4) Sodium Hydroxide

5) Arginine

6) Polyimide-1

A.3 Emulsifier Ingredients

Finally, last but not least, the category of the 'linker' molecules -- 'emulsifier' compounds (i.e. surfactants, soaps, detergents, etc. ) are shown below:

1) Cetearyl Acohol

2) Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkylacrylate Crosspolymer

In this mixture, there are few emulsifiers present. I must note that the structure for cetearyl alcohol is rather ambiguous in the picture above. You probably do not understand what chemical structures with parenthesis () mean? In the image below, the chemical structure is expanded to the chemical cetearyl alcohol-14:

Shown above are 4 different illustrations of cetearyl alcohol. Since the length of the alkyl (carbon chain) can vary based on the index (the number outside of the parenthesis), cetearyl alcohol has many different structures. Meaning that the length of the carbon chain will vary. As you can probably guess, the longer the carbon chain, the more that the molecule will acts as a 'nonpolar' one rather than a polar molecule. short chained cetearyl alcohols are 'polar'.

In the structure (B) above, cetearyl alcohol-14 chemical structure is shown without the hydrogen molecules attached. This representation is referred to as the 'line structure.' Often chemists will use the 'line structure' to simplify the representation to focus on other aspects of the molecular structure. Structure (C) has all of the hydrogen atoms attached to the structure. Structure (D) shows the full structure flattened out for clarity of the numbers and types of atoms present. In future blogs, I might just use line formulas to simplify the case in point of ingredients in a given product formulation -- be aware!

A.4 Surfactants

Note: these are not the only three categories of ingredients. There are other main categories which are slightly separate from the above three categories. One such category is surfactants -- which are listed below:

1) Ceteareth-20

2) Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate

Here is the structure of ceteareth-2 shown in the image below:

Again, shown above are 4 different structures for ceteareth-2. Notice in the structure (A) that in parenthesis there is one "O" on the chain? If the index 'n' is two, there will be two as shown in the line structure (B). If the index 'n' was 20 as in ceteareth-20, then there would be 20 "O" (oxygen atoms) and the molecule would run off of the page of the screen. Therefore, I used an example of ceteareth-2 to show the chemical structure.

B) Additional Categories: Skin Conditioning Agent, Skin Protectant, Humectant, and Emollient:

B.1 Skin Conditioning Agent

1) Glycerin

2) Mineral Oil

3) Cyclopentasiloxane

4) Dimethicone

5) Glyceryl Dilaurate

6) Butylene Glycol

7) Arginine

8) Tocopheryl Acetate

9) Centella Asiatica Extract

10) Hydrolyzed Collagen

11) Withania Somnifera Root Extract

12) Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

13) Hydrolyzed Elastin

Inspecting the list above and comparing it to the three additional lists below, some chemicals will serve two purposes. This multifaceted nature of the chemical gives rise to the distinction of definitions of these categories. Meaning that a skin-conditioning agent is also an humectant and an emollient in certain products. The important take-away message is that in order to interpret the function of various ingredients, look at the product. Ask yourself the following question:

What is the purpose of adding the ingredient into the product?

To determine the function, the website EWG gives the categorical function (i.e., skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, humectant, etc.). In this blog post, the product is a 'skin firming moisturizing lotion' from the manufacturer Jergen's. The list above gives a few ingredients that will not be common across various lotions (products) from different manufacturers. Alternatively, the majority of the chemicals are common ingredients. This will become apparent in the future posts which look at different products.

Skin conditioning agent is defined in the previous blog as:

A skin conditioning agent and an essential fatty acid that helps maintain optimal skin health and function. Lipid Organic products found in living systems that are insoluble in water, like fats. Cell membranes are made of lipids.

The nonpolar nature of the chemicals will serve as a 'skin-repleneshing agent' to the lotion under inspection. As I mentioned in the very first post 'anti-aging' post is that there is very little in terms of regeneration of collagen by external chemical means possible. Therefore, the purpose of adding a distribution of lipids, oils, and fats will serve as a "coating" to adhere to the upper layer of the Stratum Corneum (the outer layer of the epidermis). If you were to add a highly polar liquid as the major ingredient to the lotion, the consistency would change and possibly not stick to the outer layer of the epidermis. Remember the following rule:

Like loves Like!

If you apply this principle in formulating products, then formulation will be much easier. As I mentioned, some ingredients serve many different purposes. Adding oils, fats, lipids that will adhere to the skin will produce a layer which might be perceived as 'new skin' or 'moisturized skin'. Really, the layer is just sitting on your skin. How do you ensure that the layer will stay on the skin?

In order to make that happen, you will need to add a binder and a skin protectant. Before moving to the next section of skin protectant, remember that skin conditioning agents will diffuse down into the top few layers of the skin -- but mostly sit on the outer layer.

One ingredient to highlight out of the skin-conditioning agent list is: Fucus Vesiculosus Extract. Research from 2002 suggests that the extract might have anti-aging properties as highlighted in the abstract to the research article shown below:

Recently the researchers found that an extract of Fucus vesiculosus, which is a type of seaweed, promotes the contraction of fibroblast-populated collagen gels through increased expression of integrin molecules. In this study, they investigated the effects of topical application of an aqueous extract of this alga on the thickness and the mechanical properties of human skin. A gel formulation that included 1% of the extract was applied topically to human cheek skin twice daily for five weeks. A significant decrease in skin thickness measured by B-mode ultrasound was elicited, as was a significant improvement in elasticity measured with a Cutometer as compared with controls. In cheek skin, the thickness normally increases and the elasticity usually decreases with age. These results suggest that the Fucus vesiculosus extract possesses anti-aging activities and should be useful for a variety of cosmetics.

The exact mechanism is not known. The research results were preliminary and more research has to be done to decipher into the exact mechanism of the Fucus Vesiculosus extract. This is a chemical that stands out. Other chemicals listed above will be redundant in other products. Next, I will comment on skin protectants below.

B.2 Skin Protectant

1) Glycerin

2) Petrolatum

3) Mineral Oil

4) Dimeticone

The list above are common ingredients which function as skin protectant. The purpose of adding a skin protectant is to ensure that the layer of lipids, fats, oils, long carbon chains to form a film on the top layer of the skin. Additionally, the purpose is to hold the moisture inside the upper most layer of the skin (to hydrate) which promotes the appearance of 'healthy and younger' looking skin. Using these ingredients does not actually change the physiology of the skin. Basically, the skin protectant serves as the outer layer of the skin -- i.e. fake layer.

Another purpose of having a skin protectant is to hold in the moisture in the top layer of the skin. The chemicals that promote moisture build up are 'humectants.' Humectants are chemicals which are 'hydroscopic' in nature. Hydroscopic means that the chemical will absorb water. Incorporating humectants into a moisturizing lotion serves two purposes: attracts water (keeps moisture in) and prevents the lotion from drying out (and cracking). Below is a list of humectants found in the Jergen's Skin Firming Lotion:

B.3 Humectant

1) Glycerin

2) Butylene Glycol

3) Hydrolyzed Collagen

B.4 Emollient

1) Cetearyl Alcohol

2) Petrolatum

3) Mineral Oil

4) Cyclopentasiloxane

5) Dimethicone

6) Glyceryl Dilaurate

7) Hydrolyzed Collagen

The list above contains the chemicals which act as Emollients. What is confusing to me is the vague distinction between the categories. This is the reason why I chose the distinction of 'hydrophobic' 'hydrophilic' and 'emulsifier'. These distinctions make more sense in formulating a cosmetic product. Here is the definition of an 'emollient' from the previous blog post below:

Moisturizers or emollients are complex mixtures of chemical agents specially designed to make the external layers of the skin (epidermis) softer and more pliable. They increase the skin's hydration (water content) by reducing evaporation. Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols, as well as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc., may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers. They usually are available as commercial products for cosmetic and therapeutic uses, but can also be made at home using common pharmacy ingredients.

As you can see, certain chemicals that are categorized as 'skin conditioning agents' are also 'emollients.' Confusing? Yep. Again, the idea is to return to the overall purpose of the skin firming lotion -- i.e. make the skin tighter, younger looking and moist. All of these chemicals work in concert to form the formulation at hand. Adding in various chain lengths of carbon (i.e., short chain - less viscous, long chain - very viscous) changes the properties of the product. Formulating a cream or lotion is making a mixture.

Last but not least, these chemicals will not work together over time. Spoiling might happen. Degradation of lipids, oils, and long chain molecules when the product is exposed to the atmosphere will inevitably happen. The following chemicals are incorporated to act as a preservative:

1) DMDM Hydantoin

2) Methyl Paraben

3) Propyl Paraben

Conclusions

Wow, that was a lengthy list of structures and functions -- right? Although, now you have a better
understanding of the nature of the chemicals or at least should have. Chemistry is about exploring structure and function. Especially, since the two are intricately related. In the above ingredient analysis, you were able to see how structure gives rise to play a part in function. There are gaps left in the explanation -- some of which are intentional and others which are not. Education is an ongoing process. Remember that each of you hold the power to explore the chemicals in question on your own. That is why I try (as much as possible) to stick to 'open source' without paywalls -- explanations.

In the paragraphs above, I have introduced you to the ingredients used in one product. That product was Jergen's Skin Firming Moisturizing Lotion. Since this was my first deconstruction of a product, the blog post was sort of all over the place. If you would like to see more or less of certain content, please tell me in the comments. This was a learning experience for me. In the next post, I will continue with a brief analysis of the toxicology of the ingredients in the same products. Then, I will move onto a new product which claims 'anti-aging' properties too. At that point, the ingredients which are essential will start to become completely apparent.

Until next time, Have a great day! References are below for the sources of the material above.

References:

1) EWG's Skin Deep cosmetic Database:

http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/

2) Paula's Choice (beauty product database):

http://www.paulaschoice.com/

3) Cosmetics and Toiletries.com:

http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/chemistry/17390254.html

4) Chemist's Corner:

http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/355/polarity-of-cosmetic-oils

5) Prospector:

http://knowledge.ulprospector.com/268/reduce-oily-feel-moisturizer-formulation/

6) Cosmetics info:

http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/dmdm-hydantoin

7) The Pharmaceutics and Compounding Lab (at UNC):

http://pharmlabs.unc.edu/labs/solubility/structure.htm

8) Web MD:

http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-953-ashwagandha.aspx?activeingredientid=953

9) Fujimura T1, Tsukahara K, Moriwaki S, Kitahara T, Sano T, Takema Y. "Treatment of human skin with an extract of Fucus vesiculosus changes its thickness and mechanical properties." J Cosmet Sci. 2002 Jan-Feb;53(1):1-9.

10)

Saturday, November 19, 2016

What's Next In The "Anti-aging Skin Series"?

After exploring (by listing) all of the ingredients in the last blog post for the skin care product made by Jergens -- "Jergens Skin Firming Lotion," I promised to address the ingredients more "in detail" and provide a greater insight into the toxicity associated with them. The task has proven to more difficult than I initially thought to it would be. No Worries -- Not to say insurmountable.

In the last post, I listed all 29 ingredients of the lotion. As I look over the list of functions which I listed from the website "EWG" -- I see many terms which can be further defined under the category "Function" of the ingredient. Therefore, I will start by composing a small glossary of terms like "Skin Conditioning Agent" or "Emollient" in the next post. This will assist us in future posts on "anti-aging" skin care products. Additionally, this glossary will help with other skin care products by providing better insight into the actual function. After I publish the glossary, we will pick back up with the previous blog post on "Jergens Skin Firming Lotion."

For those readers just joining us, the blog post is part of the ongoing skin series on anti-aging stemming from the initial blog post which can be found here. The series is titled "Anti-aging Skin Series." By clicking on the hyperlinked text, past blog posts can be found.

With that in mind, I will return to composing the glossary from which we can explore other products in the future in greater detail. If you (the reader) have any preferences on the layout of the information which would clarify the subject matter in any light, please leave a comment below. I am always open to suggestion. Part of the issue at hand currently, is that I am approaching the subject from a chemist's standpoint and want to deconstruct the ingredients in the easiest way possible for everyone to understand.

Anyways, until next time, have a great weekend!

Thursday, October 20, 2016

Anti-Aging Skin Series Post 4: What Is A Cosmetic Product?

The last post in the "Anti-Aging Skin Series" was tying up loose ends regarding the "function of skin". In order to proceed to evaluate the effectiveness of a given anti-aging skin care product, we have to be able to validate the product first. A given product will have claims associated with it that provide clarity as to the treatment on your skin. Further, the ingredient list will provide the evidence that chemists can use to validate the claims. Above all, to begin with, we must distinguish between a cosmetic product and other products. What are the "other products"? The other products are those whose claims fall outside the range of cosmetics. Usually, these have to have approval by various agencies such as the "Food and Drug Administration."

Usual Disclaimer:

For some readers the material might be too elementary ( or too much detail). I would challenge you to think deeply about the simplicity of the descriptions and also I will include links for you too (on the side with greater detail).

Overall Effect/Aim Of A Cosmetic Product

The overall aim of a cosmetic product is to provide the following:

1) Sense of effect

2) Desired effect

3) Manufacturer's claimed effect

After reading the above three effects you might be somewhat confused. The following question might emerge as a result:

Why are all three not the same or a combined effect?

The reason lies within the claim of the product. If I (a scientist) were to use a product with a claim, I would be looking to validate the claim. Evidently, according to the "Chemist's Corner" that is only part of the achieved mission. Why? The most important statement from a cosmetic chemist is the following:

If the product does not make the person feel better, then the product designers of the product have failed.

Really?

Yes. Even if the product fulfills the claim listed on the container (marketed as) and validated by the ingredients list?

The most important person to satisfy is the customer. Which is one reason why I am breaking down the initial blog post into digestible bits.

Alternatively, the cosmetic industry understands this and can extend the claims (in fraudulent cases) in order to achieve the overall goal: satisfy the customer. Once a customer is satisfied, then the message spreads about the success of the product and sales increase as a result. Meanwhile, harm done to consumer propagates without understanding the nature of the fraudulent claim causing alarm. There are regulatory procedures for a cosmetic product. In the section below, the differences between a cosmetic product and a drug are highlighted.

What Is A Cosmetic Product?

To answer the question in the simplest terms, lets consult 'Wikipedia' for a definition of 'Cosmetics'. An excerpt is shown below taken from the page:

Cosmetics, also known as make-up, are substances or products used to enhance the appearance or fragrance of the body. Many cosmetics are designed for use on the face and hair. In the 21st century, women generally use more cosmetics than men. They are generally mixtures of chemical compounds; some being derived from natural sources (such as coconut oil), and some being synthetics.[1] Common cosmetics include lipstick, mascara, eye shadow, foundation, rouge, skin cleansers and skin lotions, shampoo, hairstyling products (gel, hair spray, etc.), perfume, and cologne.

In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which regulates cosmetics,[2] defines cosmetics as "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions". This broad definition includes any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. The FDA specifically excludes soap from this category.[3]

Relatively simple right?

Depending on who you ask, the definition can vary slightly or to a large extent. A cosmetic product is a mixture of compounds. Further, the "active ingredient" involved in the product is not necessarily correctly indicated on the label of the product. Why do I mention this last statement?

Further, the FDA definition of a cosmetic product as indicated in the excerpt above specifies that the product CANNOT change the body's structure or functions. That is extremely important to understand about skin care products. Why? Because, the claim may be specifying a change that falls into the category. Can I point out an example of this? Yes!

In the very first blog post which motivated the "Anti-Aging Skin Series," an excerpt was presented by Dr. Zoe Draelos regarding the efficacy and mode of action for "glycan skin care creams":

Dr. Draelos said the goal of glycan creams is to provide sugars or transform existing sugars to allow older cells to behave like younger cells. In theory, this would allow the skin to produce more collagen and heal better after injuries, including burns and cuts. Dr. Draelos notes one added benefit of glycan creams is that they are considered safe to apply to the skin because sugars are the body’s fuel.

However, Dr. Draelos notes current research has not shown if glycan creams can impact the skin to the extent that skin cell glycans begin to act more youthful. “The theory behind glycans’ impact on anti-aging is very much in its infancy,” said Dr. Draelos. “Currently there are other more proven treatments on the market, such as retinoids, but new research will provide additional targets for anti-aging strategies.”

You will recall that in the first part of the excerpt, Dr. Zoe Draelos describes the loss of glycans as a natural part of aging. For the moment, a glycan is the intermediate (attached to the outside of the cell) toward making collagen. As we age, the glycan levels vary and this reduction is thought to be responsible for the loss or reduction in collagen production.

Here is where a skin care product manufacturer might run into difficulty with product claims. If the manufacturer states that the product enhances the production of collagen, then the product is not a "cosmetic product" and would be classified as a "drug" with different regulatory procedures to jump through to get to market.

Take home message?

The clear distinction between a cosmetic product and a drug is necessary for each of us (as consumers) to understand when seeking to purchase a product for an intended purpose. Here are two excerpts taken from the "Food and Drug Administration's" website regarding the distinction. First, the strict definitions of both a "drug" and a "cosmetic product" are shown below:

How does the law define a cosmetic?

The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use, as "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body...for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance" [FD&C Act, sec. 201(i)]. Among the products included in this definition are skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, cleansing shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, and deodorants, as well as any substance intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product.

How does the law define a drug?

The FD&C Act defines drugs, in part, by their intended use, as "articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease" and "articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals" [FD&C Act, sec. 201(g)(1)].

Furthermore, it is important to understand that both a "drug" and a "cosmetic product" have completely different "approval" routes. Here is another excerpt taken from the FDA website regarding the approval routes for the two types of products:

How approval requirements are different ?

Under the FD&C Act, cosmetic products and ingredients, with the exception of color additives, do not require FDA approval before they go on the market. Drugs, however, must generally either receive premarket approval by FDA through the New Drug Application (NDA) process or conform to a "monograph" for a particular drug category, as established by FDA's Over-the-Counter (OTC) Drug Review. These monographs specify conditions whereby OTC drug ingredients are generally recognized as safe and effective, and not misbranded. Certain OTC drugs may remain on the market without an NDA approval until a monograph for its class of drugs is finalized as a regulation. However, once FDA has made a final determination on the status of an OTC drug category, such products must either be the subject of an approved NDA [FD&C Act, sec. 505(a) and (b)], or comply with the appropriate monograph for an OTC drug. (A note on the term "new drug": Despite the word "new," a "new drug" may have been in use for many years. If a product is intended for use as a drug, it must comply with the requirements outlined above.)

Having the knowledge above will allow you as a consumer to understand the various claims of the cosmetic product's manufacturer. Further, the information above allows you to ask knowledgeable questions as a consumer into the efficacy and justifiable claims made. And last but not least, you can now help the rest of the world by reporting false claims to the FDA to have the products removed from the market. Especially, if a given product is causing consumers harm.

Conclusion ...

Over the course of writing the initial blog post which was lengthy, I have now come to realize that the skin care product business is varied in the amount of information presented on the back of each product container. This will become apparent to the reader (you) in the weeks to come as we continue the series in investigating "anti-aging" products. Additionally, I am surprised that consumers have so much trust in the cosmetic product market. When all is said and done, at the end of the day, the consumer is both the market and the safety advocate.

What do I mean by this?

The cosmetic market is run by years of highly successful consumers passing on opinions regarding various products. These opinions have been unmatched by scientific safety information. Only after a problem is reported does a product get scrutinized. Yes, certain ingredients have been approved to incorporate into cosmetic products. Therein lies the large range in which these companies have to operate and market in.

As we move forward, examples will be shown of "anti-aging" products and the ingredients/claims will be further investigated. I look forward to having the reader provide input where necessary (or interested) to enhance the quality of the material presented.

Until next time, have a great day!

Tuesday, September 27, 2016

Anti-Aging Skin Series Post 3: Skin -- Function - part 2

A little over a week ago, I wrote the first part of the "Skin -- Function" in the continuing series: "Anti-Aging Skin Series." In that post, I briefly introduced the top layer of skin -- the Epidermis. Generally speaking, there are two main layers of interest to designers of cosmetic formulations and skin care products -- the top two: Epidermis and Dermis. The last post was concerned with the Epidermis since this layer is made up of 5 critical layers (each with a specific function).

In the interest of Kayla's advice of breaking down the initial blog post on "Anti-Aging," I chose to divide up that last post into two parts. This post will be the second part of the function of skin concerned with the deeper layer below the Epidermis -- the Dermis. Without further delay, lets explore the Dermis in regards to the function that it plays in the overall purpose of skin.

Usual Disclaimer:

For some readers the material might be too elementary ( or too much detail). I would challenge you to think deeply about the simplicity of the descriptions and also I will include links for you too (on the side with greater detail).

How Important Is The Dermis?

I decided to start off this part with the question of "How Important Is The Dermis?" Why? In order to answer these questions, lets revisit the diagram of the structure of human skin. A diagram of the structure of human skin taken from a book authored by Dr. Zoe Draelos and Dr. Peter Pugliese titled "Physiology of the Skin" is shown below:

As you can see the top few layers of the skin make up the epidermis and were discussed in the previous post. From the diagram above, the first assumption of the function of the dermis in relation to the entire "skin" as an organ might be to serve the epidermis. In the last post, we learned that the epidermis is not static and is quite dynamic (evolving over time). Since there is no vascular layer in the epidermis, a supply of some sorts needs to come from somewhere. Where is that "somewhere"? The dermis layer of the human skin organ.

What are some of the other functions of the dermis layer?

If "Wikipedia" is consulted to answer the question above, here is the response in the form of an excerpt:

The dermis is a layer of skin between the epidermis (with which it makes up the cutis) and subcutaneous tissues, that primarily consists of dense irregular connective tissue and cushions the body from stress and strain. It is divided into two layers, the superficial area adjacent to the epidermis called the papillary region and a deep thicker area known as the reticular dermis.[1] The dermis is tightly connected to the epidermis through a basement membrane. Structural components of the dermis are collagen, elastic fibers, and extrafibrillar matrix.[2] It also contains mechanoreceptors that provide the sense of touch and thermoreceptors that provide the sense of heat. In addition, hair follicles, sweat glands, sebaceous glands, apocrine glands, lymphatic vessels and blood vessels are present in the dermis. Those blood vessels provide nourishment and waste removal for both dermal and epidermal cells.

The dermis appears to play a large role in the production of skin. Stem cells start forming here and move up into the Epidermis to proceed further into the five layers -- which were discussed in the previous post. Above all else, the dermis plays a critical role in thermal regulation. Controlling the body temperature along with providing the sense of touch, reaction to heat, and housing the glands to secrete toxins makes the dermis layer critical to having healthy skin.

Upon inspection of the dermis layer in the diagram above, the layer appears to be quite heterogenous. Heterogenous means that there are multiple components that make up the dermis -- which have many different functions -- such as those highlighted in the excerpt above. In order to control the body temperature, the ability to sweat is critical. Sweating is the main avenue toward "cooling down" the body. Along with the hair follicles and blood vessels are sweat glands.

How many sweat glands do we have on our skin?

According the American Academy of Dermatology website, we have a the following in every square inch of skin:

1) 650 sweat glands

2) 20 blood vessels

3) 60,000 melanocytes (which give skin its color)

4) 1,000 nerve endings (sensing touch, pain, etc.)

Wow!!

How many sweat glands are needed across our entire body?

In a previous post that I wrote on my personal (Mike Thinks) site, the number was set at around 2.5 million strategically spread throughout the human body surface. These sweat glands are mixed with a system of blood vessels that differ in size and range in function -- from providing oxygen to the epidermis (lower layers) to providing oxygen and nutrients to the dermis. Remember, the dermis makes up around 90% of the skin (three layers: Subcutaneous, Dermis, and Epidermis). The temperature control and shock/strain control are a major function.

How Does The Dermis Produce Healthy Skin?

In the previous post on the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin was essentially the "defining layer" toward the appearance of healthy skin. Although, there are five layers of the epidermis that are continuously changing. Over the course of two months, stem cells formed in the dermis layer move up through the epidermis and go through the following processes. As the layers move toward the surface, the cells start to die out and flatten out.

At the same time, the body produces a "glue" called the "natural moisturizing factor" to hold the flattened out 'corneocytes' together. This layer of the epidermis is responsible for holding in water and helping to regulate the body temperature. At this point, you may be wondering the following question:

Why are you talking about the epidermis when the post is about the dermis layer of the human skin?

The reason is because the dermis and epidermis work in synchronization with one another. Collagen, the "cushy" part of the skin -- giving skin the volume or body is produced in the dermis and then moves into the epidermis -- which ultimately flatten out.

As people age, their skin tends to lose collagen. Additionally, as the "natural moisturizer factor" is depleted over time and not replenished by our body, then the skin tends to dry out and become irritable and flaky. Other descriptions include "crepey" skin. This is where the importance of using skin conditioners -- moisturizing factors become important. That is one way of keeping healthy skin along with not smoking, drinking enough water, and staying out of the sun.

Do not fall for the scams!!

Now that you have knowledge of the process by which skin is produced, try not to fall for any scams. For instance, if a cosmetic product has a "promise" or "claim" written on the bottle that the formulation contains "chemicals" or "ingredients" that will replenish the "collagen" in your skin -- do not fall for the scam. The only way to produce more collagen is the genetically enhance the production. If that were possible, the cosmetic product would still fall out of the reach of the skin care business -- and would need to be FDA (Food and Drug Association) regulated. The product would have to be treated like a pharmaceutical product. Be careful what you believe in a product's claim.

Conclusion...

Over the past three blogs, I have introduced the structure and function of the human skin. Along the way, I have raised questions which should remind you (the reader) to be wary of the claims on a given cosmetic products brand. At the same time, when a cosmetic product is being used to enhance the appearance of your skin, be sure not to interfere with the skin's natural progression (of producing new skin) to shed old skin. Any good cosmetic product should enhance the appearance of your skin while allowing the skin to regulate body temperature and feel wonderful touches.

Remember as we traverse the landscape of anti-aging claims and products that above all, your opinion is most important. Looking back on questions such as: "What does healthy skin look like for me?" -- are critical to consider when deciding which cosmetic product is right for you. Alternatively, do not forget that the human skin is a living organ. Despite the corneocytes that have died and flattened, there is a whole other layer -- dermis to consider with the vast networks of blood vessels and sweat glands along with the nerves to consider. Quite possibly, a cosmetic product could damage the 'dynamic' nature of the skin or process. Normally, cosmetic chemists aspire to achieve the correct formulation for a given result. But each of us should be wary of the method by which the result is achieved.

Until next time, have a great day!!!

Thursday, September 15, 2016

Anti-Aging Skin Series Post 2: Skin -- Function - part 1

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote a short little blog post introducing the "structure of skin" in the first blog post on the "Anti-Aging Skin Series" which is a break down of a long post titled "Can Science Really Reverse Aging Skin?". With the basics of the "structure of skin" in hand, the next obvious blog post should be on the "function of skin." Why - you might ask? Well, as with most scientific advances, "structure" and "function" are the critical components of any new scientific advancement. Many consumer products make wild claims. Additionally, many consumer products claim to "possess" ingredients (chemicals) which will perform (in a certain way) or heal specific diseases. With regard to chemistry and chemicals found in consumer products, understanding the "function" of a chemical based on the "chemical structure" is critical to understanding any benefit or disadvantage.

Usual Disclaimer:

For some readers the material might be too elementary ( or too much detail). I would challenge you to think deeply about the simplicity of the descriptions and also I will include links for you too (on the side with greater detail).

With this in mind, lets explore the "function of the skin." To understand the function each macroscopic layer plays, the easiest way is to start from the outside and work our way down - inside. I use the term "macroscopic" to emphasize that the cellular picture is too specific for the discussion and will be referred to when needed. The outermost layer of the skin is referred to as the "Epidermis." If we continue down inside the organ (skin), the next two layers would be: Dermis, Hypodermis. Since the purpose of the "Anti-Aging Skin Series" is to break down a long post into edible bites, I think in the current post, introducing the function of the Epidermis will be more than enough for one reading. Enjoy!

What is the function of the Epidermis?

A diagram of the structure of human skin taken from a book authored by Dr. Zoe Draelos and Dr. Peter Pugliese titled "Physiology of the Skin" is shown below:

In the first chapter of the book, the content is captured appropriately by the title of the chapter -- "Behavior of Normal Healthy Skin." Of the three types of skin mentioned in the introductory post about skin (access here), the two types of skin that are relevant to the cosmetic industry are the outer two layers: epidermis and dermis.

I am a big believer in not "reinventing the wheel" -- meaning, I like to cite other authors work and use their explanations when better understood than mine. From the first chapter of the book, here is a description of the epidermis that captures the function in a simple but complex manner:

The epidermis is the outer skin layer that forms a outer barrier to the outer world. This barrier keeps out water, sunlight, insects, germs, heat and cold, dirt and gases. It keeps in fluids such as water and blood, and holds safe minerals, vitamins, hormones, proteins and heat. An incredible self-renewing system, the epidermis provides replacement of the outer cells lost to the environment. It provides a water proof outer layer, yet permits internal water to carry nutrients to the outermost living cells. It provides a tough outer layer to resist friction, abrasion and pressure, yet is sensitive to the lightest touch or softest breeze. Less glamorous, but equally as important, the skin serves as a vast waste disposal system, ridding the body of many toxic substances.

I had to read that excerpt a few times before comprehending the entire range of the skin. Remember when your older sister or brother use to grab onto your arm skin and twist it -- to cause a sudden escalation of pain along with the outcry...."stop that you bully..." Well, I had my fair share with dispensing a few to my younger brother. Yet, at the time, the last idea running through my head was the dynamic range of the skin.

To be able to withstand abrasion, yet feel the softest breeze. The body is amazing. From the diagram above, a person would never have been able to ascertain the many functions that the outer layer of skin provided. At least, I would not have been able to (I cannot speak for anyone else).

Here is a short -- 2 minute video worth watching to give you a basic idea about the epidermis that was taken from the website "Chemist's Corner" titled "What Is Skin For?" shown below. I highly recommend viewing the short video before reading further into the blog post:

The producers did a great job of listing the relevant steps in the process of producing the various layers of the epidermis. If I had just started with the weird names such as "stratum corneum" you might have been asleep already, right?

The Epidermis can be split up into five layers which are of importance. Especially, when formulating a product. The outermost layer of the epidermis is the "stratum corneum" and for functional purposes is the hardest. Keeping foreign invaders out is just one purpose along with the many others listed in the excerpt above. The four layers underneath the stratum corneum serve to different steps in production of the outermost layer -- as you will see shortly. The video above illustrates the point just made that the bottom few layers manufacture the final outer layer of skin. Lets take a look at the stratum corneum below.

Function of the Stratum Corneum

As I just mentioned, the stratum corneum is fueled by the layers underneath. Below is a brief breakdown of the layers along with an excerpt to clarify a few key terms which will help us understand anti-aging products claims and effects in later blogs. Further, at times, the Stratum Corneum will be referred to in abbreviated form -- "SC". Here is a diagram of the Stratum Corneum taken from the book above -- "Physiology of the Skin" shown below:

Working our way to the top from the bottom, a few points about each layer should be understood by a cosmetic chemist or a consumer. There are many claims that originate out of the "marketing" or "Public Relations" departments in product lines that have no or very little scientific basis. After reading about the various layers, as a consumer, you might have a different perspective toward your next purchase.

Without further ado, starting with the Stratum Basale:

Cells known as keratinocytes start forming in the stratum basale layer. Additionally, another type of cell of importance is made here -- melanocytes which produce the chemical pigment melanin. Melanin is devoted to skin color but also contributes as a defense mechanism again harmful UV rays.

An important note about the various layers of the epidermis is that there is an upward movement of the layers. Think of a reptile like a snake which over time will shed it's skin or the teeth of a shark which produce a new set every weeks. Similarly, the keratinocytes and melanocytes that are made in the basale layer will eventually make their way up to the outer stratum corneum layer.

Note: But first, on their way, transformations will occur. These transformations will be a change of polarity in the proteins itself, death (cells will flatten out and dry out/die), and production of natural moisturizer factor. That is to say, cells that arise in the basale layer will eventually die when they reach the stratum corneum.

Next, the Stratum Spinosum:

In the stratum spinosum, the keratin cells start becoming "spiny" -- which is to say, their shape starts to change. Lipid production has already occurred in the previous layer, therefore, the lipids are very similar in structure. This layer is referred to as "early differentiation."

The "Zone of Transition" -- Stratum Granulosum:

In the "zone of transition," many changes are starting to occur. There is the keratin proteins have started to fill the cells completely. Earlier, in the stratum spinosum, lipids were 'static' (i.e. not changing). That is not the case in the stratum granulosum. Along the way, the production of various macromolecules have started to take place. In this phase, sterol production is increased along with glycolipids, and cholesterol sulfate. The SC is now close to formation.

Finally, the Stratum Corneum:

In the last layer -- the layer closest to the environment (the outside world), the keratinocytes have lost enzyme function and are doomed to flatten out into their final shape. The cell has lost most of the function -- except that the new function is to be flat and hard -- to serve as a barrier toward to outside world. As the cells (keratin protein filled) harden the matrix forms of "flattened cells" -- called corneocytes.

The matrix of corneocytes have intercorneocyte layers. Intermixed in the layers are lamellar bodies. These bodies serve an important purpose. The secretion of vital chemicals (such as free sterols, sphingolipids, and other compounds like glycoproteins). Combined, this chemical matrix permits both hydrophilic and hydrophobic materials to pass through the intercorneocyte space. The matrix serves as a "guard" agains foreign invaders.

Overall, the layers of the underlying skin have produced the critical components for the formation of the stratum corneum. Here is another excerpt that might help clarify the complex stratum corneum from the book:

Keratin is the protein that makes up the bulk of the SC. Keratin is a helical, or coil-shaped fibrous protein made up of a series of building blocks, known as polypeptides. These polypeptides are, in turn, made up of the most basic substances, known as amino acids. Amino acids are arranged in a variety of orders to form chains of polypeptides, which are then twisted around each other to form proteins. These polypeptides vary in different parts of the body so that the skin protein is not homogeneous, but rather heterogeneous. The protein is resistant to water and many chemicals. It is this complex structure that provides part of the protection from the outside. Manufacturing proteins is one of the major functions of the skin.

These keratin proteins are formed and arranged into cells known as corneocytes that are held together with fats, known as lipids. The SC can be thought of as a brick wall, with the protein-rich corneocytes forming the bricks and the lipids functioning as the glue. It is this brick wall that provides the barrier necessary for the beauty and health of the body.

The lipids that keep the proteins glued in place in the SC are water-insoluble, oily substances. They can be classified by their electrical charge and by their structure. The two major groups of lipids are polar lipids and nonpolar lipids. Polar lipids have an electrical charge. Examples of this type of lipid are phospholipids, glycolipids and cholesterol. Non-polar lipids have no electrical charge. Tryglycerides, squalene and waxes are examples of this group.

The six major structural groups of lipids are: triglycerides, the most abundant lipid in the body, which function as energy strorage compounds and make up between 12-25% of the lipids in the SC; fatty acides, which give the oily feel and make up between 12-20% of the lipids in the SC; waxes, which make up 6% of the lipids in the SC; and cholesterol, shingolipids and ceramides, which make up between 14-25% of lipids in the SC.

Does the Stratum Corneum seem complicated? This layer is the smallest layer and most crucial layer toward the outside world. The total thickness is around 150 micrometers. To give you an idea of the relative size of this layer, a human hair is around 70 micrometers. The stratum corneum is roughly two hair strands in diameter and of the upmost importance with the multifunctions that it provides in relation to protecting the body from outside forces.

And last but not least regarding the stratum corneum -- it is the only layer that is visible on the skin. Therefore, the stratum corneum defines the image of the skin on the body. Scary to imagine that a layer of the skin that is roughly two strands of hair thick -- gives rise to the image of healthy or diseased skin -- Wow! Additionally, the process of producing a new layer is accomplished over a ten week cycle (every 2 months a new SC)!

Conclusion...

The structure of the outer layer of the skin -- the Epidermis -- is more complicated than you would have initially thought. Although, I would like to highlight that you do not have to be a professional medical doctor or a dermatologist (specialist) to understand the physiology of the skin -- the basics. Additionally, I would like to drive home the point that you need not be a professional to tease out the "false" or "absurd" claims that cosmetic manufacturers use to get the consumer (you ) to buy their product. Each product has different benefits and disadvantages. Some more than others. Ultimately, you will decide which you will purchase and use. I just provide some insight in the process.

A few final questions that you (the reader) should entertain after reading the post (and the next blog post) would be:

1) How do cosmetics (skin, creams, lotions, etc.) affect the function of my skin?

2) How is my skin different than other people's skin? - i.e., dry skin, itchy skin, psoriasis, etc.

3) What does healthy skin look like for my skin?

Each person is different. Therefore, each of us have different skin needs. There exist general skin functions as highlighted above. Although, when a person has a unique skin condition or need, the function might be slightly different. This is not a bad observation. In fact, this observation might be a saving grace for you -- in terms of money and health. Until next time, have a great day!